History, Development, Uniqueness, and Modern Appeal of Japanese Coffee Shops

Japanese coffee shops (kissaten) have developed as unique cultural and social entities beyond mere places to serve coffee. While influenced by Western café culture, they have incorporated distinctly Japanese elements and evolved in their own way, continuing to be loved by many people to this day. This article will delve deeply into the origins of Japanese coffee shops, the background of their development, their characteristics, history, and the reasons they remain popular in the modern era. Additionally, we will introduce famous recommended shops in Tokyo and explain points to note when visiting coffee shops. Let’s begin a journey into the profound world of Japanese coffee shops.

1. The Budding of Coffee Culture: Origins of Kissaten

To unravel the history of Japanese coffee shops, we must first look at Japan’s encounter with coffee. During the Edo period, under the isolationist policy, opportunities to taste coffee were limited to a select few who had access to Dejima in Nagasaki. However, the situation changed towards the end of the Edo period, with coffee beans beginning to be imported, and in the 8th year of Meiji (1875), the first advertisement for coffee production and sales under a Japanese name appeared. At this time, coffee was still a rarity that only a few people could enjoy.

The first coffee shop operated by a Japanese person appeared around the 20th year of Meiji (1887), which is considered the beginning of “kissaten” in Japan. The first documented coffee shop was “Kahii-chakan,” which opened in Ueno in the 21st year of Meiji (1888). The founder, Tei Eikei, had a strong desire to provide a place for cultural exchange similar to coffee houses in the West. This enthusiasm was reflected in the shop’s facilities, which included not only books and magazines but also recreational items like playing cards and billiards, and even bath chambers and changing rooms. However, at that time, coffee was served at about twice the price of soba noodles, strongly positioning it as a luxury item primarily used by the upper class.

Early coffee shops had a strong aspect of being salons for cultural exchange and knowledge absorption, not just places to drink coffee, and became symbolic places for adopting Western culture in Japan’s modernizing Meiji society.

2. Popularization and Diversification: Development and Spread of Coffee Shops

From the middle to late Meiji era, café culture gradually spread among Japanese people. Especially in large cities like Tokyo and Osaka, Western restaurants and cafés opened one after another, gaining popularity among Japanese people. During this time, cafés began to play a role as venues for cultural activities, serving an important role as places for literary and artistic exchange. Also, simple coffee shops called “milk halls” appeared mainly in student areas, where people could freely read provided newspapers and official gazettes.

Entering the 20th century, the forms of coffee shops diversified. In the 44th year of Meiji (1911), “Café Printemps” opened in Ginza, becoming the first establishment to call itself a “café.” Since the recognition of cafés (kissaten) as a business format was still low at that time, they recruited maintenance members to secure regular customers. Meanwhile, around the same time, “cafés” featuring service by female servers (jokyu) became popular. In contrast, cafés that did not offer impure services by female servers came to be called “jun-kissa” (pure coffee shops), becoming popular as places to casually enjoy coffee and light meals, with individually operated shops increasing rapidly.

However, when World War II broke out, coffee bean imports were restricted, and by 1944, they had completely ceased. While many coffee shops were forced to close, substitute coffee made from soybeans and lily bulbs appeared. After the war, when coffee bean imports resumed in 1950, Japanese coffee shops regained their vitality. Particularly around 1960, individually operated coffee shops became mainstream, with owners’ particular tastes strongly reflected in the shops’ individuality. During this time, coffee shops for enjoying music also became popular, with various styles of coffee shops appearing, such as classical music cafés and singing cafés.

3. Individuality and Diversity: Characteristics of Japanese Coffee Shops

Japanese coffee shops have nurtured their own culture throughout their history. Their characteristics are reflected in the atmosphere, menu, and spirit of “omotenashi” (hospitality).

Traditional coffee shops, especially those called jun-kissa, generally have subdued lighting and a calm atmosphere. Antique-style furniture, well-used wooden counters, and booth seating create a space evoking nostalgia. This atmosphere contrasts with the bright and stylish interiors of modern cafés.

The menu centers on carefully brewed coffee and tea. Many shops adhere to traditional extraction methods such as nel drip and siphon. In addition to light meals like sandwiches and toast, Western-style dishes adapted to Japanese tastes, such as Napolitan spaghetti and pilaf, are also standard. Furthermore, nostalgic desserts and drinks such as cream soda, milkshakes, and beautifully presented parfaits are among the charms of coffee shops.

The spirit of “omotenashi” is also valued in Japanese coffee shops. In addition to polite service, some shops offer Japanese tea to customers who stay for more than 30 minutes. Such meticulous attention to detail makes coffee shops more than just places for food and drink, but comfortable spaces.

In the past, different business permits were required for kissaten and cafés, but currently, both require the same restaurant business permit. However, generally, kissaten are often distinguished as having a retro and authentic image, while cafés are perceived as having an overseas style and trend-conscious concept.

4. Through the Flow of Time: Historical Transition of Coffee Shops

The history of Japanese coffee shops began in the Meiji era and has transformed with the times.

In the Meiji era (1868-1912), early coffee shops such as “Kahii-chakan” appeared and served as social venues for intellectuals and the elite. Coffee was still expensive, and with growing interest in Western culture, these places became sources of new cultural dissemination.

In the Taisho era (1912-1926), coffee became more widespread, and more coffee shops opened. Coffee gradually established itself as a common beverage, and coffee shops became places open to the general public.

In the Showa era (1926-1989), coffee shop culture greatly developed. Different business formats such as “café” and “jun-kissa” emerged, and during the post-war recovery period, unique coffee shops reflecting the times, such as music cafés and singing cafés, were born. During the period of high economic growth, coffee shops spread to the suburbs, becoming important places of relaxation for young people.

In the Heisei era (1989-2019) and Reiwa era (2019-present), the environment surrounding coffee has greatly changed with the entry of major coffee chain stores and the emergence of third-wave coffee. However, traditional coffee shops have not lost their charm and are again attracting attention due to the retro boom and the influence of social media.

Looking back at history, coffee shops have played roles beyond mere places for food and drink, serving as places for people to interact, exchange information, and create culture.

5. Appeal That Remains Unfaded: Reasons Coffee Shops Continue to Be Supported

Even in modern times, Japanese coffee shops continue to be supported by many people for various reasons.

One reason is the appreciation for nostalgia and retro culture. Especially for younger generations, the atmosphere and menu of coffee shops that evoke the Showa era are fresh and popular as spots that look good on social media.

Also, coffee shops serve as a “third place” distinct from home or workplace. They are used for various purposes: enjoying conversations with friends, concentrating on reading or work, or spending time quietly alone.

Furthermore, Japanese coffee shops have their own cultural value and charm. Carefully brewed coffee, traditional menus, and above all, their unique atmosphere provide a special experience that cannot be tasted in other cafés. In recent years, as self-service cafés increase, one reason coffee shops are supported is that more people prioritize “comfort” where they can relax even if prices are somewhat higher.

The spread of social media has also boosted the popularity of coffee shops. Stylish interiors and attractive menus spread through photo sharing, attracting new customer segments.

6. Famous Shop Tour in Tokyo: Recommended Famous Coffee Shops

Tokyo is home to numerous famous coffee shops with history and tradition. Below are some particularly recommended shops.

These shops each have different charms and will provide visitors with special times.

7. To Enjoy Coffee Shops More: Points to Note When Visiting

Coffee shops are places where many people relax and spend time as they wish. When visiting, it’s important to be considerate of others and follow manners to share a comfortable space.

When visiting with multiple people, be mindful of your voice volume and enjoy conversations quietly. Remember that there may be people using the shop alone. Also, as a rule, order at least one drink per person.

When using coffee shops for meetings, especially in business settings, it’s considered proper manners to wait for the other person before ordering. However, if the other person is significantly delayed, it’s acceptable to order a drink first.

Regarding taking photos inside shops, be considerate not to disturb other customers, and note that some shops prohibit photography. If uploading photos to social media, remember to process them so that individuals cannot be identified.

If staying for a long time, it’s important to consider the shop by ordering additional drinks. Also, instead of placing belongings on the table, put them in provided baskets or at your feet.

When using coffee shops for business meetings, choose a shop quiet enough that surrounding conversations won’t be distracting, and it’s good to secure seats in advance. Be mindful of your voice volume and try to speak in a calm tone.

8. Conclusion: The Timeless Charm of Japanese Coffee Shops

Japanese coffee shops have undergone diverse developments with the times since the introduction of coffee. As more than just places that serve coffee, they are deeply rooted in Japanese society as hubs for cultural exchange, spaces for relaxation, and places connected to people’s memories. Retro atmosphere, particular coffee, and the warm spirit of “omotenashi” continue to fascinate many people even today. With the spread of social media, their charm is showing further expansion, and Japanese coffee shops will continue to be beloved entities transcending eras.